Werner’s Wings/Storm Miniatures

1/35th MH-47E Conversion Online Build


Step 5



A pretty exciting day for me, test fitting the cockpit.  The first thing I did was the pedals. 
After cleaning them up I noticed that they were too long for the troughs.

This is how they are provided

This is after they were modified

I used a drill and pin vise to drill all the way through the parts so that the pedals could be pivoted until I was ready to set them in place


This is the pedals as seen through the side window.  I will add the brake lines later.


Here is the cockpit put together with just a few drops of glue to hold the parts in place.  They are not permanently attached. 
I am still working on the ‘correct’ way to attach the glare shield. 
This is not it but it does show up nice.


Now to see how it fits inside the clear nose piece.  I’m pretty happy with the fit. 




Step 6


Time to start getting some color into the cockpit area. 

First off I’ve added the Multi-Function Displays (MFD)  to the backside of the instrument panel. 
I want to add some brake lines as well but haven’t done that yet.

Here are the parts looking from the pilot’s view.  I think it looks impressive


After washing in a grease removing dish detergent and rinsing in warm water, the cockpit was given a coat of Alclad grey primer. 
This is my favorite primer period.  Notice how everything comes together.


A coat of Tamiya zinc was applied to the floor and some components. 
Then a sponge was used to dab some chips on the paint with Mr. Maskol. 
These will be removed later during the weathering stage.

While that was drying I did some work with glare shield.  I wasn’t sure if I should recommend the
Cobra Company CH-47D cockpit set just because I wasn’t sure what it adds. 
Well I changed my mind.  I highly recommend the set.  It has a bunch of useful stuff. 
Here I’ve attached the compass from the kit and the blue lights under the instrument panel. 

I also took this time to prep the kit parts for the cockpit floor.  First off I cut the kit cockpit off. 
I sawed at a 45 degree angle taking care to leave the holes for the tabs on the kit broom closet.  This ensured that would fit properly. 

Then I had to remove the floor support on the fuselage halves and the small L shaped bracket on the right fuselage half.

Finally after I was done with that it was time to add various shades of black.  I used Tamiya NATO Black
for the instrument panel and boxes.  Lifelike Cockpit Black was used for the floor.  The insulation was painted
Tire Black.  These are initial colors and there will be weathering and other things going on but
for now it looks pretty black and cool. 

That is where I left off.  Now to do some other little detail painting prior to weathering with Mig Pigments and SIN filters.

Step 7


Well the color, black, was painted and the details were picked out.  It is a shame that most of this will
not even be seen on the finished aircraft.  I know it is in there though.

Here is the complete cockpit minus the seats.  There are no less than seven different blacks in there. 
The overall color was Lifelike Deep Cockpit.  That was given a filter of SIN Grey for Panzer Grey. 
When that was dried, a dry brush of Model Master Steel to give it a metallic feel. 
Then small sponges were used with Tamiya Zinc and Model Master Steel to replicate the wear patterns in around the cockpit. 
This was enhanced with some Mig Pigments, Desert Sand.  Apple Barrel paints were used for the various colors around the cockpit. 
The instruments were added from aeroscale.  Grey pencil was used to pick out the MFD knobs and some other minor items. 
Tamiya Clear Green, Smoke, and Clear Blue were used on various MFDs. 

The seats were painted with Tamiya Flat Black with a very light dusting of grey.  They are fabric so they shouldn’t be worn. 
The belts were painted with Apple Barrel paints.  When dried the shoulder harnesses were given SIN filters of Blue for Panzer Grey. 
The seatbelts got SIN’s Brown for Desert Brown filter.  The buckles were painted with Model Master Aluminum


Here is the completed cockpit subassembly.

Step 8



Just a quick update.  I forgot to add the circuit breaker panels so here they are installed. 
I had to move the fire extinquisher forward slightly.


I added brake lines to the pedals but these will never be seen.  I know they are there.

The avionics shelf and area were the next little project I took on.  I used the Cobra Company CH-47D Update set. 
I think this is an essential set now that I’ve been building the model

Here are the shelves themselves.

Now I’m taking on the aft transmission area before I tackle the interior.  I’ll be using the Cobra Company set for this as well.


Step 9


This update has more to do with Cobra Company stuff than the Werner’s Wings/Storm Miniatures MH-47E Conversion. 
Might as well do the whole enchilada while I’m doing it.  I’m sorry it is taking me so long but you know how having family and the holidays get. 
The granddaughters significantly cut into my modeling time.

Before I could do any work I had to fill the strange shaped mold marks.  I used Perfect Modeling Putty. 
This stuff is really good.  Let it dry thoroughly and then dry sand it and the stuff is pretty perfect.  A good tool to add to your box.

You’ll note that I decided to use the Cobra Company Aft Pylon set (Catalog # 35025).  I liked the set but the instructions
leave a little bit to be desired.  Here is the way that I elected to put it together. 

I found that my transmission cover was too short.  I probably built something wrong but I decided to
replace it with a cover of my own.  It was easy enough to make and it looks good, especially after some paint.


The Cobra Company set offers a lot of nice stuff for the back end of your Chinook. 
This is visible on the finished model so I decided to do some work back here.  I ended up scratch building some frame work
because what is in the kit is not very accurate.  Evergreen styrene was used for the various boxes and structural panels. 

Left Side

Right Side

Once I was happy with the primer, I pre-shaded the entire area with Tamiya NATO Black.  Any black will do but I like NATO Black.

Right Side

Then a coat of Tamiya Dark Grey was sprayed on.  I know it isn’t an exact match out of the bottle but after
the weathering it will be a dead ringer.  The grey was lightened with some White and thinned down
some more. Then details and streaks were added to add visual interest. 
It still needs a wash and dry brushing but it is good for now. 

Left Side

Right Side

Once the wash and dry brushing are done I’ll start adding tubing and wiring.  It may not be 100% accurate
but it will be representative of the real thing and will look busy. 

Here is a start on the next part, the cabin area.  I have started to remove the overhead panel supports in
preparation for the Cobra Company interior set (Set Number 35022, unfortunately it is out of production). 


.  Just have to finish up the cabin and aft pylon area.  Then time to add the heavy fuel cells and
other things that will make this a different Chinook.

Step 10


After cleaning up the roof to remove the molded on detail it was time to add the Cobra Company framing set. 
I don’t think this set is available anymore.  I did this process without the aft portion attached to the fuselage. 
It just made it easier to handle.  I just followed the instructions to get the vertical parts in place. 
I elected to cut the parts in half as it would be easier to deal with.  This required me to fill the small gap between the cuts. 
Here is what it looks like with the parts installed.  I used styrene plugs to cover the joins. 
Most are from the backside but the first two are on both the front and backside as they are seen both ways.

Before I installed the horizontal supports for the seats and anything else I thought it was time to
add the aft pylon to the fuselage.  This wasn’t difficult as long as you take your time and make sure the fit is good. 
I flat sanded the ends to make sure they fit well.  Then it was a matter of clamping and gluing the
parts together.  There was very little need for filler.

Here are the frames after the front and back have been joined.

And just to make sure that it all fits properly and to motivate me I taped the fuselage halves together.


Now I thought was a good time to add the external fuel tanks.  I knew I had to support the weight of them and the model. 
The tanks are unfortunately heavy because of the shape and casting.  Test fitting them revealed a slight problem. 
The tanks are slightly short.  It is important to align the tanks properly at the front and at the rear
round window.  Here is what I mean.

If you align the front the window is off.  I’m not going to say it is blank mm short as your mileage may
vary do to the sanding of the fuselage halves.  Either way, I came up with a relatively easy fix. 
I cut the fuel tank in half.  Aft of the pump assembly, which while I’m thinking about it, I’m sorry there is a bubble there. 
It is on everyone’s copy.  Mine included.  It is a limitation in the molding process.  You will have to repair it.  Sorry.  Anyhow back to the cut.
  I used a saw and separated the pieces.

Once the tank was in two pieces I simply added styrene to get it to the proper length.  I used some clamps and a BAF (big a* file). 
My BAF is very straight so I simply clamped it to file.  This made sure that there was no twist in the tank and that they were
aligned along the bottom, which in theory should align everything.  While the tank was attached to the file I put a horizontal
support on the backside of the tank.  There is plenty of room and you’ll never see it so you don’t have to be especially neat. 
I then drilled four holes for wire support, two in front and two aft of the cut.  This held everything in place.  Then it was as any
other seam, filler, sand and repeat.  If you do it properly it should look like this.

Then it is just a matter of checking the size against the model. 

Getting the tank to attach to the fuselage is pretty easy.  I drilled four holes in inconspicuous spots, two below
the floor line and then some mid fuselage that you probably won’t be able to see.  You’ll note the aft
most ones are near the bulkheads.  This will hide it from the back and will allow me to
add stuff (seats or gear) to cover the holes. 

I attached the wire through the holes and attached the studs with epoxy.  I let it dry overnight and then
I’ll go back in with super glue and Apoxy Sculpt and fair the tank in.  Repeat for the other side. 

It is starting to look like a behemoth that it is.  This ain’t your father’s Chinook anymore.


Continue on to step 11

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